For the majority of your haircolor clients, light is right.
Regardless if they’re brown, red or blonde, it’s always good to sweeten the
shade with lots of light. Last week, we gave you
the scoop on brightening your brunettes, from latte to bittersweet. Now,
here are some delicious treats for your strawberry and vanilla clients.
Fresh strawberry shades get
juicier with a bit of lift, but you can end up trying to squeeze too much out of
them. “At any level, natural redheads expose lots of warmth when lifting,”
says LISA TUETKEN, assistant director of education, HAIRCOLOR
XPRESS, Ft. Lauderdale, FL. To ban brass, know when you should opt for
bleach, a high-lift formula, or a combination of the two.
“A current trend is to place a
panel of the lightest color underneath the top of the hair surface,” says
CHRISTOPHER DOVE, creative director, WELLA, Los Angeles, CA. A veil
of natural or medium color overlays the lightened shade, partially concealing
it, but allowing it to shine through. For redheads, fill the hidden panel with a
blonde or a lighter copper. You can move just a few levels with a high-lift
formula, and get a noticeable change. “Don’t be afraid of copper this fall,”
says GAVEN SMITH, REDKEN platform artist, and owner, STUDIO GAVEN
HAIRCOLOUR, Franklin, TN, who favors demi-permanents Curry and Golden
Apricot from Shades EQ. The hidden panel method hides re-growth, so it’s perfect
for a first-timer or young client whose parents don’t want lots of upkeep.
“Many redheads prefer to go
blonde, but it doesn’t look natural on them,” says Dove. You can give clients an
entirely new look that doesn’t have the artificial feel of fat-free Breyers.
Start with a few lighter highlights to break up the texture and add dimension.
Then, add more red for depth. In the end, your client has a blend of a redder
red than her natural shade, plus some brand new blonde. “The overall look
remains the same but you’ve added dimension and interest, without compromising
the hair.” says Dove.
Berry Goes Blondie
“If your client really wants
to go blonde, use a high-lift formula as a base,” says Dove. Make sure you
choose the right color. Avoid aiming for super pale, icicle-light tones. The
change will be too aggressive. Then apply bleach or powder lightener to lighten
and add dimension. “Nicole Kidman has this look right now,” says Dove. “Her base
is golden-blonde done with a high-lift, plus she has the dimension of lighter
pieces, created with a product like Wella Blondor Cr?me Lightener.”
Red hair lifts fairly fast, so
when you get to the toner stage, have some fun and choose a product that lets
you stay in control. Dove suggests Wella Koleston Pastel Toner Developer, which
can be mixed with level 9 and 10 colors, and used as a pastel toner. A client
may already be light all over, but desires toning. To do it, mix two formulas: a
level 9 ash-blonde, and level 10 pearl-blonde. Apply in different regions or
zones. The Pastel Toner isn’t absorbed right away, so you get extra time to work
on pre-lightened hair and get the perfect look. Now if only someone would invent
melt-free ice cream.
With blondes, timing is
everything. A few minutes can mean the difference between a flattering French
vanilla, and a frazzled freezer-burn look. “Blondes lighten the quickest, and
easiest,” says Tuetken. “You have to pay close attention all the time, keeping
an eye on bleaches, and avoiding lifting too far.” Over-lifted locks can shed
toner in two weeks, making your client a salon regular - even if she doesn’t
want to be. “The key is to achieve the best blonde, without going overly
blonde,” says Smith.
If you know the secret ingredients,
you can use just two products to create a dimensional blonde that won’t stress
you out with complicated formulations. “One of the prettiest blondes can be
designed by applying two products separately in alternating foils: a high lift
color and a cream lightener,” says Smith. He likes Redken Color Fusion Double
Blonde N series and Lift 515 cream lightener (which lifts to a pale yellow that
doesn’t need toning.) Place under dryer for just 15 minutes. Cool and rinse.
Your client will be out the door while your colleagues are still waiting for
their timers to go off.
“Super light blondes need honey or
wheat tones running through, so for them I like to add a deeper shade between
the foils,” says Smith. Follow the directions for Double Scoop. Then, between
foils, use a Shades EQ mix of 9G (vanilla cream) and 9B (platinum ice) for a
soft, pale, wheat-y color. Process everything together. Just cut away the band
on a processing cap, and place it over the foils and the Shades EQ so the glaze
doesn’t dry out under heat. “With a deep blonde mixed in, the lighter shades
stand out even more,” says Smith.
If a blonde client wants
super-light highlights on her smoky, ashy natural color, you need to bridge the
gap between the two shades. Otherwise, you’ll end up with that same overly
contrasted, artificial look that crops up when you combine bright gold streaks
with level 1 locks. For a smooth transition, try the Doves’ Velvet Toning
technique. First, do your foils. Then use Wella Color Touch, a demi-permanent,
to lift the natural ashy look away and add a soft, velvet base. Use it in
targeted areas adjacent to highlights, or as all-over color. “It’s not such a
major commitment because it’s a demi,” says Dove.
Toning can be tedious, but not if
you have the right product. “Certain Colourshines shades work well toning
pre-lightened or naturally pale hair,” says EMILY BEHLING-HEKIER,
artistic team member, SEBASTIAN, San Diego, CA. “Plus, since they’re
transparent, you can cover the whole head. You don’t have to pick out the
pre-lightened pieces and tone directly there.” Colourshines Crystal cancels out
a bit of gold, creating an iridescent, platinum blonde, while Glorious Gold plus
Honey Wheat creates a warm blonde. Smith uses Shades EQ copper glazes as inlays
in blondes. “It creates soft moveable color in between blonder pieces,” he says.