7 Updo Tips from Martin Parsons at Premiere Orlando

It's a fact: Today's upstyles are worlds different now than they were a couple years ago. (The proof is in your high school prom pictures.) No one knows this better than updo extraordinaire Martin Parsons. “Updos now are softer, it’s all about moving the hair with your comb,” Martin says. “The looks are fuller, but they don’t have to be so big.”

Get with the times and you'll get more clients! Here are a few tips and tricked we learned from Martin when he took Mainstage at Premiere Orlando 2012:

All the right moves — When crafting updos, it’s all about where you stand and how you move. “Updos are like drawing,” Martin says. “You move your body in the direction you want the hair to move.” Next time you're frustrated with a twist that's not going your way, shift around a little and see what happens.

Twist and shout — Say your client has super-straight hair and you need to amp up the volume—fast. Try thumbtwists! Twist a small section of hair and, with your thumb and forefinger, massage in the opposite direction. Do it five times and continue down the section, and you’ll quickly have a head full of teased curls. Curl the hair with an iron beforehand to achieve even better results.

Waterfalls — You’ll always impress a client with a complicated-looking updo. But just because it looks complicated doesn’t mean it has to be complicated to create. “Braids are popular, they’re so soft and pretty,” Martin says. Use the trend to your advantage by making more intricate updos in less time. Martin suggests adding waterfall braids from the forehead to the crown. As you move back toward the crown, push the braids forward for volume and pin. (Make sure to cross your pins to keep things secure!)

Crunch Time — How long does it take you to do an updo? The better question: how long should it take? Martin says a braided updo shouldn’t take longer than 15 minutes. “You need to set some goals,” Martin says. “You may not get there the first couple times, but you will!”

Rolling in the Deep (Style) — Here’s an easy way to finish an updo: work your way down to the nape, and leave yourself a triangle-shaped section. Divide in half. Cross the right side to the left and the left to the right, wrap the hair around the top of the head and pin: you just added a little Adele to your updo! “This modernizes the look,” Martin says. “You could do a headband, but this is her own hair, and that’ll get it talked about.” 

In the Loop — In addition to doing your fancy waterfall braids, there’s another easy way to add detail and definition to your updos. Take a section of hair and add pins every five inches. At each pin, twist in the opposite direction so the hair is wrapped around the pin in a loop and pin into your design. Continue your loops and pins until the section is completely worked into the hair. “This is great for volume if your client needs a little more fullness,” Martin says. “And it looks expensive!”

The Finish Line — Which finishing spray is right for you? Easy: use a finishing spray that rises. Test out your selection and see which sprays fall—the ones that float upward will help your updo last longer.