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Bulletin Boards > Cut and Style > Why do my layered bobs look like shags? M
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Posted By:BTCAdmin on: 9/3/2004 4:30:54 PM

Author: Thread: Why do my layered bobs look like shags? M
Posts: 1

Posted: Friday, February 06, 2004 4:49:00 AM
Every time I cut a bob and then layer it after, it ends up looking like a shag. I end up with a lot of bulky hair that looks like it needs to be cut off right under the occipital. I usually cut the bob, starting at the nape, with the head tipped forward to produce an undercut. Then, I go through and do layering pivotally around the high point of the head, and this is what results. Then they sorta look at it funny in the mirror, as if it should be shorter or something. When a client asked for a layered bob, do they really mean a graduated bob? Any help with this would be appreciated.

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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2004 6:08:00 AM
use pictures in your consult....

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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2004 9:00:00 AM
I always cut my layered bobs as grad bobs first, not too tight at the nape, just enough so it bevels in. Then square layer from the occipital up. Do not elevate the top and cut any significant length off, just pointit out to remove the corner, otherwise you will collapse the top layer and almost create a disconnected line. I only elevate the back and sides out horizontaly and then go in and texturize. I also do the layering process dry. I like to catch mistakes before they go any further.

Posts: 1

Posted: Friday, February 06, 2004 4:30:00 PM
Thanks statikman, I can't wait to try your method. Graduated bobs (or any graduated cut, actually) are my not-so-strong point. Do you have any advice for doing the graduated portion? Or graduations in general?

Posts: 15

Posted: Friday, February 06, 2004 5:16:00 PM
What does square layering mean?

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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2004 11:37:00 PM
A layered bob will look like a shag if you layer too far down on the head. If you lay your comb on the hairlines (except for the bangs) and determine the flat section of the head, this will be your perimeter shape and length. Do not layer the flat section or you'll end up with a shag. That is one of the reasons I never do radial partings around the top of the head. A real easy way to layer a one length bob is...

1. After cutting your bob.
2. Take a mohawk section from the front hairline to the occipital bone.
3. Using the length at the occipital bone as your guide (leave it longer if you are worried about cutting the layers too short or want longer layers). Cut your mohawk section all the same length using the head shape,
4. Make sure you are in the center of the head.
5. Take parallel sections on either side of your center mohawk and pull that hair into the center and follow your original mohawk guide.
6. Continue until your are out of hair, none of the flat sections will reach the layers. Your layering will be even front to back and you wont cut into your perimeter shape so you will still have a blunt "bob" shape.

I hope this helps.

Joann: square layering is where your layering has a corner in the shape and/or the layering shape on the top is flat and not rounded, curved or inverted.


in a lather
Posts: 18

Posted: Saturday, February 07, 2004 6:01:00 AM
Russell You nail it. Perfect instructions!

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Posted: Saturday, February 07, 2004 9:13:00 AM
See, this is what is great about this board. Essentially, Russel is suggesting the exact opposite of what I suggest, yet we both have success with our approaches. I think for alot of stylists, they get so hung up on the technique that they forget about the finished result. I'm personally not a fan of bobs with shorter layers on top because the way I've acheived them has given me what I consider poor results, but I'll go ahead and try what works for Russel and see if I can expand my horizons. There is no right or wrong, it's about doing whatever you need to do to create the shape and look that you want.

Posts: 17

Posted: Monday, March 08, 2004 5:58:00 AM
It sounds like both techniques will actually give you two completely different results. It really depends on where the client wants the layers.... If she wants them more at the bottom, than statikmans suggestions would work well, and if she wants the layers on top, then russels would be better. Right?

Posts: 33

Posted: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:03:00 AM
OK, I have a question I'm embarassed to ask. When I get a request for a shag, I'm not really sure what it is, since I wasn't doing hair years ago and never had one back then. I assume it's highly layered, so I have been cutting the perimeter, then vertical cutting the sides and back at 90 degrees (and perpendicular to the floor). So you old timers: what is the shag? Is it heavier on top? Am I missing something?

Posts: 6

Posted: Monday, March 08, 2004 8:47:00 PM
A true shag is a 90 degree layered cut that does not have the perimeter cut blunt and the crown is shorter than the perimeter.

Today a 'shag' is any haircut that is really layered and the perimeter shape is really wispy. It's more about the texture than the shape.

So, if you are cutting the perimeter blunt, you are making your job harder. Also, try cutting the same shape you have been but use a razor.


you can check out a razor one length bob at my website.



Posted: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 8:30:00 PM
I just checked out your hair site and it has a lot of potential, but you know I felt a bit let down by the link to the "Good Person" Test on your front page navigation.
I followed it, thinking it would lead me to a fun test that you had put on your site (like the ones here about client care etc) , but it's not, is it?
It says things like in God's eyes, if I have ever hated anyone then I am a murderer, that if I have the ordacity to believe that God is all loving that he will punish me for thinking that and all sorts of stuff like that. Then it's telling me to basically pray for forgiveness every minute of the day as I am surely going to hell if I don't. It even gave me 2 very long prayers to recite all the time and links to books I need to buy if I am to go to heaven.
It was a real let down to find this type of judgemental nonsense on a hairdressing site. You appear to be someone who's a great hairstylist (I watched your videos). You wouldn't talk like that to clients who came into your salon for the first time, so it's a bit offensive that you feel you can talk, or support this manner of communication towards me and your other invited website clients.
I did like your site, but I wont be going back to it. I went there to find out more about things we have in common, like hairdressing, not to be bashed about the things we dont. Just the same as a salon I guess. Never talk about religion or politics to clients is a golden rule I was taught at the start of my career, and I now realise first hand how right my teacher was.

Good luck anyway!

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Posted: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 6:05:00 AM
keyword here is it's HIS site.....

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Posted: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 6:53:00 AM
I totally agree that he can do whatever he wants on it, but it really no longer is a professional hairdresser's site anymore is it? It's a Christian hairdresser's site that he is constantly promoting on BTC. It shows a lack of tolerance to people of different religions and spirituality, making the Mavens little more than Christian supremecists and rascists. It must kill them to have to do hair for sinners and heathens like jews, catholics, muslims, buddhists, and the rest. At least he changed the heading to "Do You Need God?" to give people a little warning.
I've been nothing but impressed with Russel's dedication to our profession and much of the advice he gives, and I doubt very much that he or his other Mavens could stand up to his own test.
Do the Mavens declare every tip, down to the penny? Wow, you've stolen from the government. Enjoy burning in eternal hellfire.

Posts: 1

Posted: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 10:18:00 AM
Oh, but Statikman, you are forgetting the hypocrisy! They have no problem with other religions as long as silver is crossing their palms. The trouble with judgmental religion is, the people who practice it don't seem to notice their own "sins" and wrongdoings. They are too busy being judgmental about everyone else's business to be aware of their own.

Posts: 16

Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2005 8:01:29 PM

You know what they say about the word "but"...

Hypocracy?.. let's not talk about religion..here's my view with whats wrong with it.

It is HIS Website.





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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2005 8:33:27 PM
Oh i don't know, i think the quiz is kind of cool myself.  I didn't realize that hairmaven was a christian and to me, that just kind of adds more depth to his personallity.  I realize i am saying this from a christians perspective, but you know, if anyone put anything up about their personal beliefs, i would be facinated by it.  I'm a pretty open minded person though.
Statik- I think the point of the quiz, even though i was not able to take it with my computer, is not saying that you have to be perfect, i think it's to show that you need God.  Because no one is perfect, no one claims all of their tips, or never lies, the Ten Commandments are a mirror to show that we need God is personally what i was taught.  But that is my oppinion.