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Posted By:stylist13 on: 1/2/2006 11:03:35 AM

Author: Thread: breakage!
Posts: 17

Posted: Monday, January 02, 2006 11:03:35 AM
So I got both my girls in much better shape, the one I weave, she stopped using such a hardcore flat iron and I got her using some new shampoo and conditioner and she says her hair has been doing a lot better. My platinum girl, to answer some of your questions as to how I even got her to that shade was just Wella Blondor Cream bleach... it can take quite dark girls very light! But I turned her into a red-head and she looks better and he hair is healthier for it! Thanks the advice! I learned some good stuff here!

Posts: 427
Silver Member

Posted: Monday, January 02, 2006 6:10:07 PM

I'm not familiar with Redken All soft....what is it?

If it's a protein treatment of some sort I think that I have read on here somewhere that too much protein can actually be a bad thing and increase brittleness in the hair instead of strength.

If you have changed nothing then it's not your fault. Are they mad at you? I hope not. Don't beat your self up until you know for sure that it's something you really could have prevented. And if you find out that it was....then that only means that now you know something new and can prevent a re-occurance from it in the future.

Posts: 1280
Platinum Member

Posted: Monday, January 02, 2006 11:26:19 PM
It's actually just a shampoo and conditioner.  It has a pretty soft non evasive smell, it comes in orange containers.  They do have a protein treatment as well, but super soft is just shampoo and conditioner, maybe  a leave in conditioner, i forget, as i friend my hair once and was using tons of Redken stuff.  Whether it works or not, i couldn't tell you, i cut my hair pretty short and used it, and it started to work, but one i cut my hair, and two it was so fried, i didn't notice if it helped that much at all, maybe for minimal damage it would work wonders?

Posts: 2566
Platinum Member

Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 7:28:10 AM


Welcome to the BTC Talk Back Boards!  Just out of curiousity - are you just retouching in foils with very minimal overlapping and taking the rest of the hair and moving it out of the foil before you fold it?  Have you changed bleaching products?  Overlapping lightener on top of lightener is a major reason for breakage.  If this is not the case......keep posting and hopefully we will find you an answer.

Cindy Farr Hester   Asst Moderator


Posts: 17

Posted: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 12:09:14 AM
thanks for the advice... with my hightlight girl I have always avoided pulling any bleach through, but her hair is in a really textured bob, and is hard to stick in the foils, so this could well have happened here and there. The other girl is a bleach blonde who was going from a level 3 to platinum, and man did I never overlap there!! They both want to be so light, is it me or do some people just not have the hair to handle such light colors? I have quite a lot of blondies who NEVER have problems, just these two.
One has fine straight hair, the other fine and curly. What's weird is that I have done both of their hair with no issue, and then suddenly with no real changes, problems arose.
oh well, learn something new everyday right?

Posts: 2566
Platinum Member

Posted: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 6:17:07 AM

Your breakage in the higlight may be random and due to overlapping.  Fine hair being the easiest to not be to withstand as much.  With that said, there is a limit to how blonde certain people can be.  If you feel they are pushing it and the hair just can't handle any more - let them know and just do a retouch.

As far as the on the on the scalp bleach goes, taking a level 3 to platinum - I don't even know how you do it.  Hair that dark was not meant to be that light.  What are you using to get it there?  Did you have to bleach 2 times?  An on the scalp bleach client must make a committment to be in the salon for a touch up every 3 weeks.  If the new growth is any further out, your heat zone from the scalp can not work to your benefit and you will not get an even bleach out.  I would not even attempt to take a level 3 to platinum.  If you have a great on the scalp bleach that stays moist for 90 mins, you simply ride the 90 mins out (or less if the hair lifts to pale yellow before) - but I have never seen a level 3 lift to a 10 in 90 mins.  It's not possible due to the strong orange undertones.  I personally would not go there - especially if it required to apps of bleach.  You may be trying to go too light and need to sit the clients down and explain their limits.  Let me know what you think.

Cindy Farr Hester   Asst Moderator


Posts: 149
Bronze Member

Posted: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 8:48:11 PM
I totally agree. I would break the base then foil the level 3 client as heavy as possible. That's as blonde as she should probably be, unless her hair is 2 inches long then go ahead and bleach away........

Posts: 1174
Platinum Member

Posted: Sunday, May 28, 2006 5:40:50 AM

Breakage means that you have stressed the hair beyond what it can handle. When dealing with haircolor that is high index (high level of maintenance or much lighter than natural shade) You must speak to the client about several challenges that exist- such as dealing with existing breakage and conditioning. You must also be aware of some things before you handle such hair. Beware that previous applications (that may have nothing to do with you!) may have degraded the quality of the hair, make no guarantees about the end reult until you have done their hair more than once.

For minimal damage, ALWAYS map out the next three intended applications over the next year to the client, and how you are going to get them there. INSIST that they come to you the next three times, and explain why it is important not to hop from salon to salon, stylist to stylist....

1. HEAT- Never use heat the first time you are dealing with heavily highlighted or bleached hair. Choose the proper level lighening process and process at room temperature. If you must use heat, always use it near the END of the process to keep from drying the product up. (It will go flat or stop lightening). Other stylist may have used heat before, this will alter your end result. ASK the client if they have used heat before

2. KEEP A RECORD of how long the process took, and what you used. Use a more liquidy lightener over wide areas whenever possible to keep lightening even. Use thicker product for spots of quick lightening. Do not use bluing lighteners unless you can easily "read the level" through them. You can fudge the developer ratio a bit to your taste, but do so AFTER you have worked with the product for awhile, mixing as instructed. NEVER alter the suggested developer volume.

3. If the product has sat for more than 30 minutes, it is DEAD. Never use exhausted product (I.e, using someone's extra left over product) because you are exposing hair to ammonia and peroxide that will not offer any significant lifting benefit, and ALL the damage.

REMIX if you are highlighting and you still have half a head to highlight (Half the amount if you need to for each application, using the first half, then mixing the 2nd half later). Make sure you highlight starting from the BACK first so you can take them out easily when they are ready. If you start at the front, you risk getting the other foils WET.

Make sure that your backbar is well stocked with a variety of oil, powder, and liquid or cream bleaches. All of them are different, you can buy them at different price points, and will give you the ability to CONTROL the amount of lift. Make sure your devloper is capped tightly and kept out of direct sunlight.

If you have breakage fresh out of the sink, use a MILK rinse before conditioning. Milk has a specific enzyme that will halt further breakage.

Hope I helped!