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Posted By:pokepres on: 2/15/2007 8:35:57 PM

Author: Thread: Matrix Socolor confusion
Posts: 81

Matrix Socolor confusion
Posted: Thursday, February 15, 2007 8:35:57 PM
So, I just moved to a new salon where they use matrix socolor. I'm previously from a salon who used Paul Mitchell The Color. I got a color application on my first day in the new store and boy was I shocked at the results! The color was surprisingly hot at the root, unnaturally bright/warm, almost party color orange. It developed uneven and I was in a pickle! I convinced the client to love it because it was really late in the night and i stayed an extra 45 minutes to finish her hair! I didn't have time to tone it down. But i was so shocked at the results! Paul Mitchell never had hot roots, it always developed evenly, and was always a predictible result. Are there any tips in using Matrix Socolor that would help me with my future clients?

Posts: 162
Bronze Member

Socolor vs. Paul Mitchell
Posted: Thursday, February 15, 2007 9:12:15 PM
Do you want to share what you did? I will help you figure this one out.
NL- natural or starting level?
DL-desired level?
UP-undertone/ underlying pigment?
DT-desired level?
%-gray/white hair?

What was your formula?

P.S. Transferring from PM to SC watch out using the N-it is much cooler tone in comperasing to PM neuterals.
And next time you do a 'big' trim safe some of that hair, take pieces put tape around it & try different formulas to see what is happening :ø)

BTW did you by any chance used a Reflect SC on your client (Reflect Socolor is the ones with orange strip on the package)?

Posts: 81

the run down
Posted: Thursday, February 15, 2007 9:26:34 PM
Well, I had another stylist formulate for me since it was too late in the night for me to try to figure it out on my own for a first time using the color.

The client had a very light golden blonde dimentional color (levels 7-10)

her regrowth was VERY dark, about a 3.

I believe she formulated me UL-PA with double 40 vol. left on at room temperature for 40 minutes

The client wanted to make it look like her hair was natural by keeping it a shade or 2 darker at the root

I was under the assumption that PA was pale ash and the base was blue...yet her hair turned up bright orange, there was no cancellation of orange at all.

I know lifting from so dark to so light would generally bring very warm results, but I was a color specialist at my old place and used to do full blonde color corrections from very dark levels and never came across such a bright orange color. The Paul Mitchell high lifts always left me with a very pretty golden beige blonde.

Posts: 162
Bronze Member

Posted: Thursday, February 15, 2007 9:50:13 PM
Ok, I know why that happened.

the UL series are designed to be used on natural levels 6 & up, and it will give you up to 4 levels of lift only, no matter how cool the tone is in this line if you use it over darker natural levels than 6 it will be too warm or brassy.

UL is double the ammonia & double the 40V & when you use it over darker levels there is not enough pigment to tone but plenty of power to expose the underlying pigment, you would have been better of using a regular line to get there that have more pigment to counteract in it.

So for example if she is a natural level 3, you can get her up to a level 7 using a regular line, for golden dark blonde I would have used 7N+40V. If she wanted neuteral level 7 -I would have used 7A+40V .

You will get it soon! Just play around with the color on swatches & it will give you an idea what works & what not.
And if you have more questions, we can help you as well on here.

Have fun adjusting :ø)

Posts: 81

Posted: Friday, February 16, 2007 4:31:20 AM
ohhhhhhhhh it all becomes clear now! Thanks for the help

Posts: 14

Posted: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 10:57:10 PM
Hey I just staaaartng using this color line too. I used 7Ash and 7Nand 40 vol on natrual level 4 and same formual but with 20 vol at the roots. It was even and all b ut i tbought I would of gotten something simialr to the swatch: A nice caramel soft beingy caramel but it was pretty butterscotchy. Nice, not brassy; just not what I expected really at all. Should I of used level 8 ? I dunno. :)

Posts: 81

Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 5:31:29 AM
ive been using the line for a little bit now...im thinking maybe instead of A and N i would have gone with ONLY A and the matrix booster that lifts you 1 extra level. All the matrix colors lift very warm, so I use A alot

Posts: 162
Bronze Member

Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 2:17:22 PM
Pokepres, I would not recommend adding Extra Blonding Creme to the UL-series, because your client will be in lots of pain.

Extra Blonding Creme is mostly ammonia, UL-series is double the ammonia than the regular Socolor series-triple the ammonia will cause damage to the hair & extreme discomfort to the client.

Tesar, in your situation I would have used Extra Blonding Creme.

Let me make sure that I understood correctly:

Your client's natural level was level 4, virgin color from roots to the ends.
-if that's the case, I would have used the same formula that you did as a virgin application to the ends, but the only thing I would have done differently is -I would have added EBC to it. Because EBC is meant for this situation, the further the hair from the scalp the harder it is to lighten it with color so you want to add some extra powers to cut through the cuticle layers ( adding EBC will help you with that).

The formula that you used on the roots -I would have used again, same tones, but used 30V instead, because you are going 3 levels lighter on the roots.

Hope this helps :)

Posts: 81

Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 7:09:04 PM
i was not saying to use the extra blonding creme to a UL series...

Posts: 162
Bronze Member

Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 7:23:34 PM
I am sorry for misunderstanding Pokepres

never-mind my post to you then :)